Recently, while on a visit to a government office in Kathmandu, I'd happened to comment on the dreary stacks of paperwork that make up such an integral part of the operations in such places. I'd wondered how these files and documents survived all that rough handling and neglect. It was a friend who'd made me wise to the fact that government offices here use a specific type of paper, popular especially for its durability. I didn't know it at the time, but what she was referring to was 'Lokta' paper.

Now, Lokta paper is derived from the Lokta plant, also known vernacularly as baruwa and kaagte paat, a high altitude shrub. Two species of the Daphne plant – Daphne bholua and Daphne papyracea – are collectively referred to as 'Lokta', and it is the inner barks of these bushes that are used to produce the traditionally handcrafted paper. Lokta is generally found between the altitudes of 6500 and 9500 feet above sea level, growing widely across the Himalayan region. The western district of Baglung and Bhojpur in Nepal's east are where these plants particularly proliferate.

For those familiar with Lokta paper, it's not difficult to understand why it has been so widely used. For one, the rough texture gives the material a very distinctive appearance. It's also easily foldable and known to bypass the problem of corrugation. Additionally, Lokta's germ-free, insect resistant and waterproof quality makes it very tough, which is why it's been long utilized by the Nepal government for official purposes. The paper's benefits, though, do not end there. Lokta is also environmentally friendly –the harvesting of the plant itself has minimal ecological impact and the paper too is easily recyclable.

In October, which marks the commencement of the harvesting season, the stems of the Lokta plant are cut about 30cm above ground level without affecting the roots. In this way, the plant retains the ability to regenerate. It then takes about three to four years for the shrub to fully mature again.

Shiva Subedi, one of the leading handmade paper manufacturers in Nepal, says the process involves plenty of labour. "A large number of people are employed in the industry," he says. "We try to uplift the economic standards of the populace in rural communities by employing them."

"The use of Lokta benefits Nepal as it is entirely self-sustainable, so we don't have to depend on others. That is probably its biggest advantage," he adds.

Lokta's uses are varied and, perhaps, limitless. Manufacturers come up with new ideas every so often. Lokta Paper Craft alone has an assortment of products that range from the expected note books, photo albums, cards and bags to L.P. boxes, lamp shades, printing sets and wrapping paper to retain the effectiveness of incense. A number of stores in Thamel and Patan sell these products exclusively, and plenty is exported overseas, where the demand for the textured material is high.

It's safe to say that Lokta paper has carved a niche for itself in the local as well as international markets, made possible because of its distinctive appearance, versatility and durability. Not to mention the fact that it's come to be practically emblematic of official transactions here. As Subedi puts with pride – "Lokta is 100 percent uniquely Nepali."

source:www.ecs.com.np

The image of a lone mountain goat, high in the Himalayas, is perhaps the farthest one can get from luxury. But it's from the soft inner coat of the chyangra, as the goat is locally called,  that we acquire the highly coveted and deluxe pashmina fibre. This very fine wool, measuring around 13 to 17 microns in diameter, is collected from the fleece of these animals that live more than 3000 meters above sea level. The outer coat is discarded and only the finest inner material, also known as the 'Diamond fibre', is used. This is what makes Nepali pashmina an internationally renowned and coveted luxury item.

The fibre for pashmina wool is collected every spring when the animal is moulting. Normally, a comb is raked through the fleece of the goat and tufts of hair are removed. They are subsequently sorted and de-haired to remove any coarse outer fur and then washed. The fibre is eventually spun into a yarn and woven into various products, a few of which are scarves, shawls and cardigans. Natural pashmina is usually found in shades of grey, blue or white but can be dyed into any colour.

Despite the decline in demand due to tough competition from cheaper foreign counterparts (that are often mixed with polyester and viscose), Nepalese pashmina still holds a status of its own. Perhaps the most important feature of Nepali pashmina is that it is completely authentic and unadulterated. "Pure pashmina has a certain spring to it that can never be found in any other blend of fibres," says Sunil Shrestha of Nepal Pashmina Industries. In order to preserve the authenticity of Nepalese pashmina and combat the effect of cheap imitations, the Nepalese government and pashmina producers have jointly registered a trademark for the wool. Nepalese pashmina is henceforth to be referred to as 'Chyangra Pashmina'.

This trademark, which has already been registered in almost 40 countries, is not only an assurance of the quality of raw materials used but also guarantees the process, production environment, processing and use of skilled manpower during manufacture.

Chyangra pashmina is generally handmade, another one of its valuable features, which ensures that each piece is one of a kind. While these products are traditionally plain and monochromatic, pashmina producers are now starting to use methods such as ikat and tie-dye techniques to colour and print designs onto the fabric. "Our Dhaka patterns are getting quite popular and our western and Nepali fusion designs are gaining pace as well," says Shrestha. Similarly, other production houses too are introducing fresh designs to attract new clients.

While the rebranding may, to some extent, have brought the industry out of a decade long slump, the real challenge lies in maintaining the brand and its quality. That being said, pashmina is still one of Nepal's biggest exports and a covetable luxury, one that cannot be imitated with a mere tag.

source:ecs.com.np